Panama is well known for its tropical paradise islands, and where the San Blas Islands lure people with their seclusion, the Bocas del Toro island group is their partying elder sister. Though it receives way more tourists than San Blas, it too has palm tree-lined beaches and azure-blue seas, but with the added bonus of sunset-cocktail happy hours. If you can swat away the drug dealers that try to sell-off their statch in Bocas Town to every random tourist they encounter, the Bocas Del Toro islands are a tropical party paradise.
– Practical information –
When
Mid-December to mid-April is the dry-season when the humidity drops and the sun shines brightly from dawn till dusk, obviously this is also when prices peak. Consider September – December if you are looking for a quieter, cheaper break. Yes, this is the rainy season, but in the Bocas, that doesn’t rule out long stretches of sunshine.
Budget
Bocas del Toro is probably one of the more expensive destinations in Panama. a hostel-dorm can be found as cheaply as 8 USD, but this might give you a bedbug-infested bunk. Meals are a lot more friendly priced and there is even some street food in Bocas Town that will provide you with a tasty dinner under 5 USD.
In, out & around
The Bocas lie in the North of Panama’s Western Carribean coastline. From most major towns in Panama, including Panama City, you can take the direct bus to Almirante. As the ride from Panama City can take up to 12 hours, a great alternative is taking the night bus (pack a sweater, the aircon in the busses in Panama is freezing) for 28 USD. Tickets can be bought at Allbrook Bus Terminal, make sure you have your passport on you when you want to purchase the tickets.
When you arrive in Almirante you fall right into a harmless scam, as the bus drops you off at a small bus station, 25 minutes by foot from the harbour (which is where virtually every passenger is going). Obviously, the many taxi-drivers that are scrambling the place will put on a convincing act that it really too far away to walk, the offline map we had downloaded however told us otherwise. If you can’t be bothered, the fare for the taxi is only 1 USD.
From the harbour in Almirante, you can take the boat (they call it water-taxis in Bocas) to Bocas Town on Isla Colon (6 USD for one-way, 10 USD for a roundtrip), and from there a boat onwards if you intend to stay on a different island.
If you travel from Casco Viejo (Costa Rica), there is also a direct bus to Almirante.
– What to do –
Bocas Town
Bocas Town is the biggest settlement in the Bocas, on the main island Isla Colon. This is where most hotels and restaurants are, and this is also where the best nightlife takes place. I did stay and would recommend staying here. For one because its a chilled out place to be. The town is pretty small and you can easily get around on foot. Yes, you will get harassed (especially if you are a guy) by drug dealers trying to sell you cocaine every now and then, but if you just ignore them they’ll let you alone. There are a couple of nice bakeries in town and streetside stalls serving delicious fruit shakes. And if you want to see a bit more of the island you can easily rent a bicycle (we didn’t even have to leave a deposit) from just about every shop in town.
Staying on Isla Colon is also most interesting price-wise. Some very atmospheric ho(s)tels are located on the smaller islands, but this beautiful seclusion comes at a price. Unless you wish to have every meal and drink at your own accommodation, every time you go out, you’re paying for the water taxi. Most charge 5 USD one-way. It makes so much more sense to stay on the main island and use the water taxis for day-trips.
Bluff beach
Bluff beach is a 5-mile stretch of yellow sand at the North-East side of Isla Colon. Some parts are secluded, others bits are accompanied by one of the handful of beach bars that line the beach and thus are a bit more social (and busy). The sea is a bit rough for swimming but therefore very popular with surfers. It is not only the beach itself that makes it worth the visit, it is also the bicycle ride towards it. From Bocas Town it is a winding, mostly paved road that stretches the frilled East-coast of Isla Colon. Some parts take you through dense jungle, at other places the road provides you access to tiny bays and small secluded beaches, perfect to take a break and try to crack open your own coconut. It took me about 15 minutes of intense hammering on a rocky outcrop. Even though I do not particularly enjoy coconut water, I always feel like a proper Robinson Crusoe when I drink from a coconut I found and cracked open myself.
Red Frog Beach & Playa Estrella
Two beaches, both with its own drawn, both of which is already given away in the name.
Red Frog Beach is the most popular beach on Isla Bastimentos. It might have once been inhabited by red frogs, but I didn’t see any. It is mainly a pretty beach with waters perfect to swim in (calm and clear). From Isla Colon, you take the water taxi (5 USD), which takes you there in about ten minutes. Isla Bastimentos is a natural reserve and for conservation purposes, they will charge you 3 USD to set foot on the island.. There are a couple of bars and restaurants so there is no need to stack up on reserves.
Playa Estrella, literally ‘starfish beach’ in Spanish, lives up to its name. From the beach, you will immediately spot the big orange starfish lazying out in the shallows. Clear waters, palm-lined beaches and many cocktails bars to serve you your sunset-cocktail (the beach is located on the West coast of the island, meaning you can see the sun set in the sea). You can either cycle the jungle-road to Bocas el Drago (impressive rocks that sort of resemble a dragon if you have a wild imagination) or take the bus. From there its a 20 minute walk to the actual beach.
Isla Zapatillas
Saving the best for last, Isla Zapatillas is a must-visit when in the Bocas. About every tour-agency or ho(s)tel will offer you a boat-tour to Isla Zapatillas, and prices range from 20-50 USD. Some (particularly those organised by hostels) include lots of free rum or beers, other will include a seafood lunch.
Isla Zapatillas is beautiful. The waters are insanely clear and crystalline blue, the beach sand is white and its palm trees complete its bounty-island look. Isla Zapatillas is also a prime breeding ground for three types of sea turtles and a visit to the island will teach you a lot about the importance of preserving this habitat. When we visited we were extremely lucky as one female turtle was laying eggs on the beach when we arrived. We were told by two local rangers that this normally only happens during the night. We observed the event from a respectable distance like excited little kids watching Santa on the telly, and when the turtle was returning to the sea we got the OK from the rangers to get a little closer.
Next to wandering around on the island a boat-tour typically also includes two snorkelling spots, a lunch break at a seafood restaurant and a visit to Sloth-island (Yes, you pronounce that the same as Slut-Island but I have to disappoint you, you will not find scarcely clothed hanging from the trees, it are mostly slow gray mammals with moss growing in their fur).
– Recommendations –
Eating & Drinking
There are many good eateries in Bocas Town, two of my favourite are Captine Caribe (they serve amazing cerviche and are pretty well priced too) and Firefly restaurant and bar (a bit more upscale but I had the best Mango-infused seafood curry I’ve ever tasted here). If you are looking for a place to party after sundown, head over to Aqua Lounge. Its a 1 USD water-taxi ride to Isla Carenero and it will be filled with young people partying and jumping into the sea from one of the many rope swings that circle a sea-hole in the middle of the outside deck.
Sleeping
There are many top-accommodations in Bocas and the prices range from 8 USD for a cheap dorm to roughly 350 USD for a top-notch 5-star boutique private villa resort.
Consider paying a bit more to get a better bed, even if you are backpacking on a budget. I met an Australian guy that moved to an 8 USD dorm after 2 nights in Selina’s because he found the rates too steep. The next day I met him again and he was covered in bedbug-bites. They also got him good in his face and his left eye looked like an overripe plum. I felt really sorry for him but couldn’t resist giving him a bit of banter for his cheapness, and how well it repaid him.
Selina on Isla Colon
The best hostel on Isla Colon hands down. It is a ‘Flashpackers’ or boutique hostel if you like, with nice spacious air-conditioned dorms and beautiful singles and doubles. The hostel has a lively bar and a great rooftop-terrace to sunbath and relax.
Bambuda Lodge on Isla Solarte
18 USD for a dorm/ 45 USD for a double. Bambuda Lodge, on Isla Solarte honestly looks like paradise. Great vibes, perfect swimming pool and beautiful dorms and privates. And the whole place is run in a sustainable way. They serve tasty food and have a lively bar but if you want to go to Bocas Town, it will cost you 3.50 USD each-way (that includes the guest-discount).
Palmar Beach Lodge on Isla Bastimentos
13 USD for a dorm/ 40 USD for a double. Palmar Beach Lodge is another sustainable paradise located on the beach. Privates are charming tents and the dorms are small wooden cabins with comfortable beds. Take into account that Palmar does not offer air conditioning to its rooms. The sea breeze obviously helps to cool down a bit, but if you are not acclimatised, chances are you going to have a sweaty night (especially in the dorms).