– What to do in Tirana –

Bunk’Art

Costs: 500 lek/ 700 lek with audio-tour

Starting with Bunk’Art because it is awesome and impressive and definitely the best sight in town. Of all things to do in Tirana, this is one you certainly cannot skip. Despite its name it got nothing to do with art. I know, I was also glad when I found that out. Bunk’Art is a huge, and I really mean huge, cold-war bunker which has been transformed into an interactive museum about Albania’s history from the start of the second world war until the break-up of the Soviet Union in 1990. Enver Hoxha, the socialist dictator who ruled Albania until his death in 1985, built the bunker as a place to hide in case of attacks by one of its many ‘supposed’ enemies. By exposing his darkest secrets to the ‘feared capitalists’ the museum fulfills a perfect paradox.

A visit will take out the biggest part of your day as it will costs you over half an hour to get there, three hours to visit and another half hour to get back. If you want to do the audio tour you should bring your own headphones as they do not provide these. 90% of the expositions have English explanations though , so the audio tour is not really needed.

How to get there

There are two Bunk’Art’s in town, referenced to as Bunk’Art 1 and Bunk’Art 2. Bunk’Art 2 is a smaller exposition in the centre of the city which shows the history of the police and secret service of Edver Hoxha. Very interesting but you want to visit Bunk’Art 1, which is located a bit further out of town.

Easiest and cheapest way to get there is by bus. Take the big blue bus to Porcelani or the smaller turquoise bus to Linze. Buses leave right next to the Plaza Hotel. One way tickets cost 40 Lek. Ask the driver or locals on the bus when to get off as the stops aren’t named. It will take you about 20 minutes before you want to get off. From there there are clear signs to museum. We got off two stops early and by simply following these signs we found it easily.

Taking the cable cars

Costs return ticket: 500 lek

Within walking distance from Bunk’Art is the lower station of the cable cars. If you want to go hiking, or mountain biking around the city this is the place to go. If you just want to see a spectacular ride to the top I suggest to keep the money in your pocket. Especially compared to prices elsewhere in Albania the cable cars feel overpriced. The views up top are great on a bright day but because the cars themselves are quite dirty and all scratched up you will not have the best views along the way, let alone good photos. There is a restaurant next to the top station with huge panoramic windows making an awesome place to have a bite.

Free Walking Tour

Costs: free (tip based), daily at 10 AM and 6 PM

The easiest way to see all the highlights of the historic centre and hear a little history about them as well is by taking a walking tour, and as in most European cities, Tirana has a free one! Tirana Free Walking Tour takes place every day at 10 AM and 6 PM (except in the winter months) and takes about 2 hours. The meeting point is in front of the Opera House. The cool thing about these tours is that since the communist history of Albania is so recent, most guides have actually experienced the regime when they were young and can tell you about it first hand.

Seeing all the highlights in town can be done quickly in under an hour. The tour visits the Clock Tower, Et’hem Bey Mosque, Saint Paul Catholic Cathedral, National Historic Museum, Piramida, National Art Gallery, Mother Teresa Square and Ressurection of Christ Orthodox Cathedral. The tour also passes along a piece of the Berlin wall that was donated by Germany as a memorial of the communist past and the house Hoxha used to live. The latter again perfectly paradoxical right across the only KFC in Albania.

Piramida

Costs: free, always open

An interesting place to spend a little more more time is the Piramida. A pyramid shaped building erected to function as a museum for the greatness of Hoxha but after the fall of his regime it has been tossed around by government and private parties alike in search of its new destination. At the moment it is mainly used by locals as a skate ramp or to climb up and down.

Climbing up is free and not overly difficult. Getting down however is a different story. I found myself at the top peering down and discovering the walls were more slippery than I noticed going up. What followed was an embarrassing 10 minute long cramped crab-like crawl back down. At the same time local young kids ran up and down the slopes beside me. Thinking about it now, it might actually not be that slippery. It’s probably just me being a coward.

National Museum of History

Costs: 200 lek, daily from 9 AM to 7 PM (closed on Wednesdays)

The National Museum of History is worth a quick visit as it provides a glimpse into Albania’s ancient history with expositions filled with ancient Greek, Roman and Ottoman artifacts. Albania has been part of the Great Ottoman Empire for 500 years, part of the Byzantine Empire (East Roman Empire) and before that part of the Greek Empire. The expositions have little English explanations though so it is hard to get a grasp of it all without an accompanying guide. We visited solo and found it hard to stay interested for more than an hour simply because of that.

– Eating, drinking and sleeping recommendations –

Everything related to eating and drinking seems to be happening in Blloku, a hip neighbourhood South West to the centre of town, South of the Lana river. There are huge price differences between places that offer similar food, drinks and atmosphere so always check the menu before ordering.

Eating

TripAdvisor seems to be drooling all over The Rooms, but I found the place rather underwhelming. Decent prices for okay-ish dishes but the cook on the food is subpar. You have better luck sitting down in the atmospheric garden of La Veen which also has huge burgers on the menu. Try the La Veen burger and trust me that you don’t need to order the American burger to leave the table with a filled stomach.

My top recommendation for eating in Tirana however has got to be Coko Bistro Bar. They serve refined dishes at very reasonable prices and the ambiance in both the front garden as well as the inner bar is excellent. Try the red cabbage spring rolls as appetizer. Not in Blloku but great for local cuisine is Tek Zgara Tirones. A little out of the centre of town but the prices are very friendly and the portions lavish.

Drinking

Great for sitting on a terrace and sipping coffee or fruit juice is the pedestrian only street Rruga Murat Toptani. The whole lane is lined with musical notes that are mainly for decorative purposes and no, the notes don’t actually form a certain symphony or song.

A good place to get start the evening is getting a sunset cocktail at the only sky bar in Tirana, conveniently named The Sky Bar. Prices are comparable to those in Blloku and the bar offers panoramic views all over town. We paid 650 lek for a beer and a gin tonic. After nightfall head over to Blloku with its many restaurants, bars and clubs. DaDa is a cool spot with a big wooden deck but at 500 lek for a large draft beer, very overpriced. Try Radio Bar for good live music and a great atmosphere.

Sleeping

Being both the capital and the city that a third of all Albanians call home Tirana offers the widest variety of accommodation in the country. The best place to stay in Tirana is in within 1500 meters from the city centre and if your preferred hotel is further out than that you want to be located South West of the centre as this is where Blloku is. This way you have close access to all the nice bars and restaurants. If you stay in this area Tirana is small enough to be explored by foot.

Best places to stay in Tirana

We found out that Booking.com will consistently give you the best rates on hotels. To make finding the perfect spot a little easier we made a selection for Tirana. Click the link below to find the best places to stay in Tirana. Take the above location tips into account when booking.

The Diplomat Hotel

On my days in Tirana I stayed at the Diplomat Hotel and did not regret my decision. This 4 star establishment is one of the best hotels in Tirana measured by class and service. At the same time management tries to run the hotel in an environmentally conscious and sustainable way. The staff is helpful, knowledgeable and friendly. The breakfast excellent and the rooms are not only comfortable but also meticulously clean. The location could have been closer to the city centre, as it is a 15 minute walk to Blloku and the heart of town. But at about 55 euro per night for a double it will be hard to find better bang for your buck.

– Practical information –

When

Travel between April and October for good weather and mild temperatures. In the winter months flights are scarce, pumping up the price for your visit, and bad weather can ruin your visit in total as Tirana is very much an outdoors city. May and September are the prime months to visit when temperatures are pleasant but not as hot as in summer, and the days long and sunny.

Budget

Conversion: 125 lek  = 1 EUR

Compared to most European cities Tirana is cheap. Compared to other destinations in Albania it is probably a bit more expensive. There are a few bars and restaurant that for no apparent reason have prices double of that of comparable places. Take a good look at the menu before sitting down.

Daily Budget	EUR 40 (45 USD)
Take-away lunch at a bakery	EUR 0.40 -1  ( 0.50 – 1.10 USD)
Meal in a restaurant	EUR 4 – 8 ( 5 – 9 USD)
Dorm	EUR 10 ( 11 USD)
Double in a 3-star hotel	EUR 40 (50 USD)

In & Out and Around

Airport

Tirana has an international airport that has direct flights to most large European cities during the summer months. In winter, getting to Tirana will most probably include a few stop-overs.

The easiest way to and from the airport is by taking the airport shuttle. The shuttle is just a mini bus with a sign on it saying Tirana. After leaving the terminal head left to the busses and ask around. Ignore taxi drivers telling you the shuttle does not run today. A single ride tickets costs 250 lek.

Bus terminal

As Tirana’s railway station has been closed down a few years ago and is not expected to re-open any time soon the best land travel option is by taking the bus. Tirana’s International Bus Terminal is located right next to the Zogu I Zi roundabout. It is about a 40 minute walk from the centre or 5 min by taxi which will cost about 400 lek. From the terminal busses to all major destinations in and around Albania depart. International connections include Montenegro, Serbia, Greece, Kosovo and Macedonia.

Getting around

If you stay close to the city centre the easiest and cheapest way is just on foot. For visiting Bunk’Art or other places a bit further out, the bus is the best options. There are serveral colored lines that crisscross Tirana. Tickets can be bought in the bus. Taxi’s are also reasonably cheap. A short 3 kilometer ride will set you back about 400 lek.